What Are Acid Serums and How Do They Work?
Acid serums used in skincare are essentially exfoliants. They are classified into two groups: alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta hydroxy acids (BHAs). The core mechanism that drives them is their ability to let go of the fluid that keeps the cells adhered to the topmost layers of the skin. With the breakdown of the cell bindings, your skin is left more even and glowing. Therefore, the most common after-effect of using an acid serum is your skin flaking off. But, do not let this falter you. It is just the dead skin coming off.
Types of Acid Serums for Skin
AHAs
These are the most widely used water-soluble acid serums. They work best on the skin surface which renders them ideal for remedying smile lines, textured skin, and uneven skin tone.
BHAs
On the contrary, BHAs work deeper into the skin to treat clogged pores. Such a characteristic makes them your ultimate acne problem solution. BHAs do this by stripping off the oil clogged in pores - the main ingredient responsible for stirring up new acne.
Best Acids to Use on Skin
Glycolic acid
Glycolic acid is extracted from sugar. This type of acid is the most potent, considering it has the tiniest-sized molecules that effortlessly work their way into the deepest layers of the skin. Owing to its instantaneous results, it has become one of the most common types of AH acids. Such an acid promotes the generation of collagen, fortifies the skin barrier, and leaves an even skin tone. A downside to glycolic acid is that it can easily cause irritability, especially to sensitive skin types, mainly because it travels too deep into the skin layers.
Lactic acid
Lactic acid has molecules larger in size than glycolic acid but still smaller than the other AHAs which makes it less irritable as compared to glycolic acid. Owing to its ability to pull in moisture from the surroundings, lactic acid is an effective moisturizing agent. For people who find that glycolic acid is too harsh on their skin, lactic acid is a useful alternative with its gentler tone.
Fruit acids
These acids are even more gentle than lactic acid. An obvious reason for their milder tone is their larger-sized molecules that do not penetrate too deep into the skin layers. Citric acid originates from lemon or grapefruit while malic acid is extracted from apples. If you ever feel like your skin could use more exfoliation, you can always move up a notch by pairing a fruit acid with either glycolic or lactic acid.
Salicylic acid
You must be familiar with this type of acid if you tend to break out frequently. It is the star remedy for treating acne. It does so by binding with the oil clogged in your pores and scooping it all out along with dead skin cells. Owing to its anti-inflammatory properties, salicylic acid is gentle on your already irritated skin.
The Ideal Way to Use an Acid
The general principle to follow before using any acid is to first test it on your arm. If the acid does not burn, you may patch test it on your face. However, slight tingling is generally not something to be concerned about. After you have decided upon an acid serum best suited for your skin, you can start applying it once a week and monitor how your skin responds. If all goes well, you may increase the number of applications per week to a maximum of twice a day.
What lands you in the dangerous territory is skipping SPF from your regime. This becomes highly important if you are applying an acid serum in the morning. Unlike what most people believe, applying SPF is equally important if your acid serum routine is at night time. Your skin is highly exposed and sensitive so a protective SPF layer is pertinent in avoiding blemishes and premature aging.
Benefits of Acid Serums
Hydration
Acids like hyaluronic acid have the capacity to hold 1000 times their mass in the form of water. They assist in the fusion between water molecules and skin cells, leaving your skin supple and moisturized.
Humectant
These are the most common ingredients in successful skincare products and are luckily found in many acids. To put it simply, a humectant has the tendency to keep pulling in moisture from the surroundings and secure it. This prolongs the hydration process in acid serums.
Skin barrier
The skin has a natural lipid barrier that shields it from damage, external toxins such as UV rays, or pollution. Consequently, with time, this outer barrier loses its natural efficiency and becomes prone to damage. A direct result of this is the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, pigmentation spots, and dehydrated skin.
Acid serums strengthen and rebuild the skin’s lipid barrier which not only prevents skin deterioration but also helps secure moisture.
Tighter skin
Your skin is prone to losing its elasticity with time. This leads to a flaccid texture with little to no bouncing back capability. Acid serums are not equipped to produce elastin. However, they do upgrade the appearance of your skin by making it look tighter and firm.
Cell renewal
Acids promote cell turnover by stimulating growth and locking in more moisture. Such a feature not only reduces fine lines and wrinkles but also prevents pigmentation spots. Your skin will not only feel well taken care of but new and youthful.
